Well no - they're not all called "Ran û Bergûz" - this name only referes to a type of male Kurdish clothes...
The hypernym for all clothes in Kurdish is "Cil û Berg" - which literally means "clothes and wearings"...
Kurdish fashion is truly diversive and comes in many shapes, colors and forms --- I shall try to encapsulate all of the larger traits found in Kurdish fashion below:
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For men:
Ran û Bergûz = Central Kurdistan: Extra-Wide legged trousers and slim-fit jacket - embroided along the collar and front of the jacket.
Şal û Şepik = Central/Southern Kurdistan: Baggy trousers which narrow at the legs + buttoned jackets and stiff collar.
Şelwar û Êleg = Northern Kurdistan: Baggy trousers with extra fabric between the legs and which are slim-fit from the knees and down to the ankles. A shirt is worn with a vest over it.
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For women:
Kiras û Fîstan = Central/Northern Kurdistan: A long dress with long sleeves (levendî) + a tight cape which is much like a coat over the dress - tied at the front under the breast - it has folds at the back and sides making the skirt look much bigger than the top.
Kiras û Kurtek = Central/Northern Kurdistan: A long dress with long sleeves (levendî) + a looser cape which is much like a coat over the dress - it's plain and simple in shape.
Kiras û Êleg = Southern Kurdistan: A long dress which can be both see-through and not + a short vest which usually stops at the ribbs - a şûtik/pişt is usually worn around the waist.
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Alternatively --- one can add these to the basics:
Pişt / Şûtik = Belt around waist - for both men and women - a long/short piece of fine cloth which is tied around the waist - much like a sash.
Kember = A silver belt worn over the kurtek / fîstan.
Kolej(e) = A wide vest worn by women, usually in red colors with golden embroidments - mostly worn in Northern Kurdistan especially Amed + Riha.
Levendî / Lewendî = An extra set of sleeves used by men (women's dresses usually have in-built ones) - which are worn from the elbows and down the arm, folded over ca 10 cm of the jacket sleeves!
Kerik / (Soranî name?) = A vest made of wool with one "horn" on each shoulder - worn by men.
Beyank / Pêşgirî = An appron - worn by women when working - to not dirty their clothes.
Zend = Extra set of sleeves which are worn over the kiras by women when working to not dirty their clothes.
Derpê = The trousers/pyjamas trousers worn under the clothes
Binkiras = The tunic worn under the kiras (long dress) by women / the t-shirt worn by men under their shirt
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Headgear:
Xawik = One or more layers of silk (hêmûş), kashmire (mexmer) or cotton (pembû) pieces of cloth used as veils by both men and women.
Şeme = A red silk cloth worn around the head - tied at the back or folded in descretely to hide any "tail" - worn over Xawiks.
Axabanî / Cemedanî = A veil in black/white or red/white combination square and crossing details pattern.
Kofî = Either one or more veils layered and tied around the head - steeping effect.
Poşî = A big black cloth made of wool/cotton with colorful fringes of pîlegs (pearls/beads) and kamfe balls (yarn balls).
Kum = A hat made of wool for men - in different colors or the traditional black and white - and in colorful beaded versions for women - often embroided with hanging pieces on the sides and back.
Dênik = A cylinder, square or round formed piece of wood covered with a red piece of kashmire cloth - and then layered and tied with pieces of silk cloth.
Tebelix = A flat and round silver/gold stained plate which has coins or chains hanging down around the edge.
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Footwear:
Give/Giwe/Kilaş = White hand made shoes of wool or hide.
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Kiras û Kurtek (golden) AND Kiras û Êleg (pink):
Men: Şelwar û Êleg + Gîve
Women: Kiras + Kolej(e) and Kofî + Gîve
Şal û Şepik + Kofî (headgear) + Lewendî (long white sleeves) + Pişt (sash):
Kerik - worn by the man on the far left:
Xawika Hêmûş ("Silk veil"):
Kofî:
Kofî:
Poşî:
Kum:
Kum:
Axabanî / Cemedanî:
They probably have a different name for "Kum" in Soranî - no idea what... And in any case - I assume they differentiate between the one for women and the one for men - since both are more widely used in Southern Kurdistan than in Northern Kurdistan.
& ----> When I say "Southern Kurdistan" I don't mean "South Kurdistan" (Iraqi Kurdistan) - just as "Northern Kurdistan" isn't a reference to "North Kurdistan" (Turkish Kurdistan)...
There are variants of the Kiras, Kurtek and Fîstan - which are so minor and many that I've not gone into details on the matter... But a hint would be to look at the Kiras & Kember of Dersîm/Çewlik...
Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:06 pm
That's 3 years ago now...